{"id":783,"date":"2016-08-05T15:25:38","date_gmt":"2016-08-05T14:25:38","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/howiem.org\/wordpress\/?p=783"},"modified":"2022-07-14T05:50:17","modified_gmt":"2022-07-14T05:50:17","slug":"quick-hacker-tip-diy-pseudo-bga","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/howiem.org\/wordpress\/2016\/08\/05\/quick-hacker-tip-diy-pseudo-bga\/","title":{"rendered":"Quick hacker tip: DIY pseudo-BGA"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-medium wp-image-715\" src=\"https:\/\/howiem.org\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/h_solar_monitor_b-4-750x562.jpg\" alt=\"h_solar_monitor_b 4\" width=\"750\" height=\"562\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Man, I hate drilling holes in PCBs. I make my boards with a mill, so it shouldn&#8217;t be too hard to swap the V-cutting bit for a drill bit, but I Just. Can&#8217;t. Be. Arsed.<\/p>\n<p>And besides, I like making things as small and slimline and dinky as possible.<\/p>\n<p>The little PCB above is a backpack for an LCD. Couldn&#8217;t avoid having to drill holes along the top to connect to the LCD itself, but everything else can be surface mounted.<\/p>\n<p>But sometimes you need a way to connect, say, an nRF transceiver, or one of those newfangled ESP8266 WIFI module\u00a0to your PCB, and they come already fitted with a pin header. And that would mean drilling more holes, and having the module standing off the board slightly. Yuck.<\/p>\n<p>So here&#8217;s my hacky approach. First, design your PCB so the pads are on the top of your\u00a0board, rather than the bottom: we&#8217;re going to take advantage of the fact the little transceivers are always double-sided boards, with through-hole plated holes.<\/p>\n<p>Transceiver on the left, my board with its 8 pads on the right:<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-medium wp-image-716\" src=\"https:\/\/howiem.org\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/h_solar_monitor_b-5-750x563.jpg\" alt=\"h_solar_monitor_b 5\" width=\"750\" height=\"563\" \/><\/p>\n<p>First step, get that header off the transceiver. With a blade, you can carefully lever off the plastic spacer tying the header pins together &#8211; do it gently, a little at a time, working from both ends of the header.<\/p>\n<p>Then you can remove the pins one at a time nice and easily. Last one:<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-medium wp-image-640\" src=\"https:\/\/howiem.org\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/wireless-122-375x500.jpg\" alt=\"wireless 122\" width=\"375\" height=\"500\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Next step &#8211; with the board held vertically, soldering iron on one side and solder sucker on the other, you can clean out all the solder from the holes:<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-medium wp-image-717\" src=\"https:\/\/howiem.org\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/h_solar_monitor_b-6-750x563.jpg\" alt=\"h_solar_monitor_b 6\" width=\"750\" height=\"563\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Important &#8211; when you&#8217;ve removed the pins, you need to make sure the now-empty pads on the bottom of the board are tinned with solder; as the header was originally soldered on the other side of the board, they may not be. So give &#8217;em a blob of solder.<\/p>\n<p>Then remove as much solder as you can from the holes. You need it to be as tidy as possible, every through-hole tinned, but as clean as possible:<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-medium wp-image-718\" src=\"https:\/\/howiem.org\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/h_solar_monitor_b-7-563x750.jpg\" alt=\"h_solar_monitor_b 7\" width=\"563\" height=\"750\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Next step: on your PCB, tin all the pads with the thinnest layer of solder you can. Then put a slightly larger blob of solder on diagonally opposite pads. Try and make them nicely rounded blobs, as they&#8217;ll act like locating pins:<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-medium wp-image-643\" src=\"https:\/\/howiem.org\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/wireless-125-374x500.jpg\" alt=\"wireless 125\" width=\"374\" height=\"500\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Which means\u00a0when you press\u00a0the transceiver board down in position over the pads, it&#8217;ll locate itself perfectly squarely, with all the pads (hopefully) lining up perfectly between the two boards:<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-medium wp-image-719\" src=\"https:\/\/howiem.org\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/h_solar_monitor_b-8-750x563.jpg\" alt=\"h_solar_monitor_b 8\" width=\"750\" height=\"563\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Touch your soldering iron to the two corner pads to melt the blobs and fix your boards together:<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-medium wp-image-645\" src=\"https:\/\/howiem.org\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/wireless-127-500x375.jpg\" alt=\"wireless 127\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" \/><\/p>\n<p>You should be able to look through the remaining holes to see whether they&#8217;re lining up perfectly with the pads underneath, then just fill the remaining holes with solder so they connect all the way through.<\/p>\n<p>It&#8217;s a balancing act &#8211; you want enough solder to fill the hole and join up with the tinned pad on the board underneath, but you don&#8217;t want so much solder that it creates shorts inbetween the two boards.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-medium wp-image-646\" src=\"https:\/\/howiem.org\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/wireless-128-500x374.jpg\" alt=\"wireless 128\" width=\"500\" height=\"374\" \/><br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-medium wp-image-721\" src=\"https:\/\/howiem.org\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/h_solar_monitor_b-10-563x750.jpg\" alt=\"h_solar_monitor_b 10\" width=\"563\" height=\"750\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Result: two boards stuck together, without the extra height the header would create:<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-medium wp-image-649\" src=\"https:\/\/howiem.org\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/wireless-131-374x500.jpg\" alt=\"wireless 131\" width=\"374\" height=\"500\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Check the connections with a multimeter before powering it up, just to make sure there are no shorts. If there are (which has only happened once out of the few dozen times I&#8217;ve done this), you can separate the boards by melting the solder, pad by pad, working a bit of folded-over kapton tape between them to keep them from reconnecting as they cool. Then clean up the two boards and have another go.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-medium wp-image-722\" src=\"https:\/\/howiem.org\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/h_solar_monitor_b-11-750x563.jpg\" alt=\"h_solar_monitor_b 11\" width=\"750\" height=\"563\" \/><br \/>\nIt may seem like a complicated way to avoid drilling eight little holes, but once you&#8217;ve done it a few times it&#8217;s surprisingly quick and easy and it knocks quite a few millimetres off the height of the board.<\/p>\n<p>Finished PCB in position (note to future self: gotta find a way of moving those electrolytic caps off to the side of the board next time):<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-medium wp-image-723\" src=\"https:\/\/howiem.org\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/h_solar_monitor_b-12-563x750.jpg\" alt=\"h_solar_monitor_b 12\" width=\"563\" height=\"750\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Final result: a wireless LCD readout for my solar panels:<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-medium wp-image-724\" src=\"https:\/\/howiem.org\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/h_solar_monitor_b-13-750x563.jpg\" alt=\"h_solar_monitor_b 13\" width=\"750\" height=\"563\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Note: this is a hacky and, arguably, utterly unnecessary technique, but I like it, so there \ud83d\ude42<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Man, I hate drilling holes in PCBs. I make my boards with a mill, so it shouldn&#8217;t be too hard to swap the V-cutting bit for a drill bit, but&#8230;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":1411,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[5,1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-783","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","category-electronics-and-hackery","category-uncategorized"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/howiem.org\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/783","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/howiem.org\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/howiem.org\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/howiem.org\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/howiem.org\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=783"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/howiem.org\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/783\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1607,"href":"https:\/\/howiem.org\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/783\/revisions\/1607"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/howiem.org\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/1411"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/howiem.org\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=783"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/howiem.org\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=783"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/howiem.org\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=783"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}